Pencil Leeks in Gribiche Yogurt Sauce

A postcard from the nexus of garden and table

alternate title: Pencil Leeks — God’s Gift from the Garden

I was thinning my 50-foot row of leeks the other morning wondering what I should cook with them. For those who don’t eat leeks often, they take on a silky smooth texture with a mild onion-like flavor when cooked. My usual go-to idea is to steam them until impossibly tender then submerge them in a mustardy vinaigrette. A perfect meal in the early summer.

Pencil Leeks, photo by Francis de Melogue

I was looking through some books for inspiration when I opened Alain Ducasse’s book ‘Nature’ and came across this version. Alain replaces the heavy mayonnaise-based Gribiche sauce with one made lighter from Greek yogurt as the base. I like this version better. Think French tartar sauce.

A Recipe of Sorts

Hard boil 2 eggs, peel, chop, then set them aside.

Steam super-thin leeks until tender, about 10 minutes. Cool.

Make Gribiche sauce by mixing 1 cup of full-fat Greek yogurt, a spoonful of Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon of vinegar, 4 tablespoons of olive oil, 1 tablespoon of chopped capers, 1 tablespoon of chopped herbs (I used chervil, tarragon, and parsley), and 5 cornichons chopped.

Plate leeks with a spoonful of sauce over them. Sprinkle eggs over and serve. Super simple and incredibly delicious.

Pencil leeks are baby leeks the same diameter as your standard #2 pencil. photo by Francois de Melogue.