As I have aged and cured I find myself looking for simpler restaurants that base their reputation on the provenance of their ingredients - like they know springers are better than the summer or late salmon that run the Columbia ( and lightyear's better than farmed Ora Kings). Or that Mount Adams boletes taste better than other ones. There is a restaurant in France that I frequent who's food comes from small farms within a mile or two. It is not the height of snobiness but rather the way it should be in a healthy world.