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Artichoke Tarte Tatin

A Market Tour of Saint Remy de Provence

Francois de Melogue
6 min readJul 26, 2019

We met Ashley, the Queen of Curious Provence, for a quick espresso at Café de la Place, located on the edge of the bustling St. Rémy market. Any possibility of feeling awkward or weird by meeting someone you don’t know was quickly obliterated by Ashley. She was perfectly outgoing and talkative enough to make us feel like we were meeting a long lost friend rather than an unknown tour guide. Within moments of downing our coffee, we were in the thick of the bustling market, weaving through the busy stalls like regular market habitués.

Artichoke Tarte Tatin with Olivado

MARKET DAYS

Visiting places with people in the know completely changes your experience from ordinary to spectacular. Ashley worked the St. Rémy market for over three years and seemingly knew everyone we passed. Because of her intimate knowledge, we were able to skip the less authentic vendors and visit the highlights, getting all the good market gossip along the way.

Market days are curious things for the small villages of Provence. To borrow a line from author Patricia Wells: “Like a giant traveling carnival, with the cast of characters changing from village to village, market day is a spectacle that has survived untouched by modern times.” The day starts early with vendors showing up to sleepy towns around 5 am. A beloved town…

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Francois de Melogue
Francois de Melogue

Written by Francois de Melogue

My earliest attempt at cookery began with the filleting of my sister's goldfish at age 2 and cooking my pet rabbits by age 7. Life has been downhill ever since.

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